It takes a unique mind to watch Planet of the Apes and use it to start a fashion collection, but that's where Christopher Kane jumped off for Spring. He liked the apes' leather tunics. "It was that, and then The Flintstones, Raquel Welch in One Million Years B.C., and then Dian Fossey and her gorillas," he said. And, like all little boys, Kane loved playing with toy dinosaurs. Hence, the stegosaurus shoes.

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There are still plenty of people who question the wisdom of a Paul Smith collection for women. The problem is that womenswear doesn't really play into his strengths, given that his hugely successful menswear line is such an expression of his own appetites and idiosyncrasies. Spring 2009 was inspired by an exhibition of British Orientalist art that just closed at Tate Britain, so there were caftan-inspired long cotton dresses and trousers with the volume of harem ...