Anna Sui Spring 2009

Sui took inspiration from the way that textile designer, shopkeeper, and New York Mexican restaurant pioneer Alexander Girard and his doll-maker friend Marilyn Neuhart made the folkloric modern. "Their work was very colorful, optimistic, and happy, which is what I'm pushing these days," Sui said.

The parade of shift dresses, rompers, and peasant tops worn with kicky skirts had a vaguely south-of-the-border feel—think rosebud embroideries, rickrack borders, and fringe detailing. But as usual, there was plenty more in Sui's madcap mix to catch the eye, including astrology prints, a detour into Spanish toreador mode, studded gladiator sandals, and some of the grooviest costume jewelry (made by Erickson Beamon) in a season of groovy costume jewelry. If it didn't put a smile on your face, you weren't paying attention.