Fashion 101 - Haute Couture

Although the quick witted, critical articles on celebrity fashion have been fun for the last week or so, i have decided the it is time to step up my game and write an article that may actually teach you something. This will be the first installment of Fashion 101, and what better way to start off then with Haute Couture.

You see it in the magazines, on the billboards, and on your television, but do we really know what it is? where it came from? or what it means? Do we know why designers spend infinite amounts of time and money on these less-than-practical "pieces'? The truth is that many of us don't. I know I didn't until I started researching this article. All we know about Haute Couture is that its expensive, celebrities dig it, and we can't find it anywhere, therefore it must be cool.

Well, for starters, the words "Haute Couture" are french for "High Sewing" or "High Dressmaking", and originally referred to French fashion. Nowadays the term is used to describe high-end, custom fitted clothing. And its origin, whether it be France, New York, Tokyo, London or Milan, has little to do with it.

However, the term "Haute Couture" is actually protected by law in France, and the rules state that "only these companies mentioned on the list drawn up each year by a commission domiciled at the ministry for industry are entitled to avail themselves". Or, in other words, unless some French guy gives you the thumbs up, its no dice on calling yourself Couture. Even if these rules were made in 1945.

And these rules to becoming true Haute Couture are as follows:

• Design made-to-order for private clients that require more than one fitting.
• Have a workshop in Paris that employs, full-time, a minimum of 15 people.
  
• Present to the press in Paris each season (spring/summer, autumn/winter) a collection of at least 35 "runs", both daytime and evening wear.

Sounds easy enough, right? Well as of spring 2007 there are only 10 OFFICIAL Haute Couture Houses.

1. Adeline André
   
2. Chanel
   
3. Christian Dior
   
4. Christian Lacroix
   
5. Dominique Sirop
   
6. Emanuel Ungaro
   
7. Franck Sorbier
   
8. Givenchy
   
9. Jean Paul Gaultier
   
10. Jean-Louis Scherrer

As well as 3 invited houses.

1. Elie Saab
   
2. Giorgio Armani
   
3. Valentino

Sorry guys and gals, but that item you picked up in the "Haute Couture" section of your local TJMaxx / Winners, probably not the real thing. This does, however, bring up an interesting question. If there are only 10 official Haute Couture houses a year, why are so many other designers pretending? The answer is easy. History. Well, history and business.

In the 18th century French culture (art, music, and fashion) was imitated by visitors to Paris. These visitors would often return home with Parisian clothing that would then be copied by local dressmakers.

The man that many believe to of started Couture fashion is Charles Frederick Worth. Although he was born in England, Worth worked in the French fashion industry to create one-of-a-kind designs for the wealthiest customers. He is best known for creating designs that were shown on live models at the House of Worth. Perhaps the first fashion show? Depending in who you ask, it would be a pretty safe bet.

However, not far behind Worth were designers such as; Callot Soeurs, Patou, Poiret, Vionnet, Chanel and Dior. Today, some of these houses still exist under the leadership of modern designers.

In the 1960's a group of designers who had trained under the likes of Dior and Chanel eventually branched off and created their own houses. Among these young men were; Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Andre Courreges, and Japanese native Hanae Mori, a women.

These days, the custom design of clothing for the rich and famous are no longer the main source of income, people like you and me are. These so called Haute Couture houses have stepped away from the very thing that they were known for, and have, instead, started to produce ready-to-wear clothing. The have traded in their history for business. And as for those fashion shows that so much of today's Pop-Culture is based on (America's Next Top Model, Project Runway, etc), well, I guess their only use is an avenue for the designers to stand up and say "Hey, look what i can do!". Many of the articles that so graciously walk their way down the runway will never see the inside of a Macy's or Holt Renfrew. Does this mean that, by purchasing these ready-to-wear items we killing the very idea of Haute Couture? Well if it was still the 18thy century I would undoubtedly say Yes. Unfortunately, the reality is that in today's society, many of us are unable to afford true couture, therefore we are not "killing" it, but simply helping it evolve. And in my opinion, that is what fashion is all about.

by: Stephen McKeon

Source: Wikipedia
Photos: Christian Lacroix Spring 2007 Couture Collection (style.com)
Model: Tiiu Kuik (Major)