RATE IT IN ?

Trendmill talks to Cockpit USA

by TrendMill Media Inc.

Added: almost 3 years ago

Jeff Clyman, picture by Sean Siegel Cockpit was founded in 1975 by Jeff Clyman, the founder of Avirex Ltd, as a response to his career in the Air Force, Flying WWII planes and driving motorcycles all while wearing his father's old Army outfits.

Cockpit USA is a lifestyle brand that will remind you of a Howard Hughes movie. It is based on empowerment and control of one's destiny with precision and old fashioned respect that comes from an era that was seemingly much more simple and romantic. The collection takes a vintage or replica approach to early aviation with flight jackets, leather sheepskin and sportswear reminiscent of a time long ago.

We had the chance to talk to this legend and talk about his family history in aviation, Avirex and the future of Cockpit.

You are the founder of two lines, Avirex and Cockpit USA. Which came first and what happened along the way that made you start the other?: Avirex was launched in 1975 and Cockpit USA was created in 1979. Cockpit USA was originally our authentic military line offered in our mail order catalog. It was also the name of our first "theme" store in New York and later in LA, Seattle and London.

Subsequently we put more emphasis on Avirex but decided to revive the Cockpit USA name for the upscale fashion line and the flight jacket line in early 2005, launching the new Cockpit USA fashion line for Fall 06.
At what point did the decision come to start focusing more on Cockpit USA?: When we realized that our basic and authentic flight jackets needed to be separate from the fashion Varsity Avirex collection.
Avirex is mostly known for varsity jackets and pilot bomber jackets (iconic symbols of American culture), how did the Hip-Hop culture fit into that?: Actually Avirex was known, when it was sold to Marc Ecko, for its very high-end varsity leather and wool and leather jackets as well as its related varsity sportswear. The flight or bomber jackets had been the "hot" item in the mid 80s.

The Hip-Hop culture, which is always fashion forward, gravitated to the varsity segment of the Avirex collection during the late 1980s because they recognized the quality and intricacy of design and execution in the varsity jackets and sporstwear we made. Those jackets were works of art that became icons and sometimes mistakenly called bomber jackets.

Who would you describe as the target market for Cockpit USA, and how does the Cockpit USA customer differ from the Avirex customer?: The target customer for Cockpit USA is a 22-40 year old independent thinking man who recognizes the quality and historical references of the clothes we make and the timelessness of our collection.

The Avirex customer today is a 14-24 young man who shops at JC Penny's, Sears and Kohl’s looking for logoed inexpensive "fast" fashion.
Cockpit USA is extremely influenced by military/aviation styling. How do you walk the line of maintaining that look, but keeping it current and fashionable for buyers?: By not making it too literal and making sportswear that is timeless although the touches will always reflect our roots in military/aviation and historical clothing.
How do you know which trends to adopt (and how to adopt them) and which to leave behind?: By trial and error to a certain extent and by continuing with what I love to produce.
Cockpit USA also features a line of women's wear. Do you find it difficult to apply the military/aviation look and styling that may be thought of as more "masculine" to women's clothing?: Like for the men's, our first capsule of women's clothing draws from our vintage heritage and is not limited to the military/aviation styles. While some of the outerwear pieces may be feminized versions of the men's flight jackets, there are also cute t-shirts with our versions of 1940s ads for example, which are not military at all!
I've read that your stores are as much an experience as a place to purchase great gear. Tell us about the idea behind them, and what you aim for in making the shopping experience a memorable one.: Our Cockpit USA store at 652 Broadway in New York is as much an American General Store as it is an aviation/clothing experience. The store sells the full Cockpit USA collection along with other American iconic brands like PF Flyer sneakers.

The store is full of beautiful books, posters, antiques and vintage accessories on sale, not to mention the actual cockpit section of a real C-45 transport Aircraft from the 1930's!

Can you talk a little bit about your families own history in aviation and your personal interest in flying? Did you ever serve in the military? Can you also tell us about the American Air Power Museum?: My grandfather flew in WWI. My father served as a Flight Surgeon and rated combat pilot in WWII but had been flying since the 1930s when he had a bi-plane he flew at air shows.

My uncle was a combat fighter pilot flying P-47s in Europe, also in WWII and strangely enough my wife and partner is an "Air Force Brat" whose father not only served in WWII but served in a civilian capacity overseas for many years in his Air Force career.

I started the museum out of my respect and love for flying and the sacrifices made by so many aviators in advancing the technology to bring us into space and what it has brought to the world, and the inner peace it gives me to share this experience with others.
Do you have your pilot license and if so how often do you fly?: Yes, I have a civilian commercial pilot's license and I fly many of the military aircraft including jet fighters at the American Airpower Museum as often as I can! It brings me into another worldly mental dimension.
Do you own any planes personally, and if so which ones?: Yes, I don't like to talk about that in detail but I loan all of them to the American Airpower Museum so that they can be enjoyed by the thousands who visit the museum annually to see them fly.
What new brands do you feel have made an impact as of lately, and what is it about them that interests you?: To be honest, none stick out...they all seem repetitious.
Who should we be on the look out for in 2007?: Cockpit USA - our new Fall 07 collection that hits stores in late August!
What factors do you personally feel are key to a brands success and longevity?: Focus and respect for classicism - excellence in fabrication and construction for the particular tier of distribution you are in.

As an entrepreneur of two successful lines, what advice do you have for anyone looking to start their own?: Spend as much time as possible working in other companies before you set out on your own and be mindful that companies are not just successful because of the "designer" but also because they have solid infrastructures to do sales, production and correct distribution.
I've done many interviews and I'm often told interviewers never ask the right questions, so would you be so kind as to make up your own question and answer it?: Why did you continue so long in this industry?

Because I love interesting fabrics and enjoy making beautiful product that reflects the classic American apparel of years gone by.
And finally we have a feature on trendmill called Last Seen, what were you last seen: Wearing?: My WWII flight suit at the Memorial Day week-end event at the American Airpower Museum.

Listening To?: Rolling Stones

Reading?: Any book I can get my hands on!

Watching?: Old 1930s and 1940s movies