Philosophy Fall Winter 2008-2009

Alberta Ferretti's 23-look collection for Philosophy revolved mostly around the juxtaposition of boyish tailored coats (these in navy wool and tweed) and girlishly sexy little dresses.

"It's a new way to coordinate the masculine and the feminine," explained Ferretti. "It's the mix that's interesting." In its many variations, Ferretti's outerwear had terrific appeal, but the lion's share of attention went to the dresses. These were in fact ingenious ensembles of separate pieces—say, a velvet apron dress worn over a sequined tulle slip. "My customer is open in her sensuality," she said. "But I don't like the too-aggressive woman."